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Add "insanely aromatic," and you have Thomas Lim's three-pronged thesis on what makes excellent pesto. The executive chef of ever-popular Ruby's in New York says that's all you need to ward off "dull and lifeless" sauce. Here are some tips for pesto that will make your other sauces green with envy.
Get the formula down.Pesto has five components: herb, acid (typically lemon juice), cheese, toasted nuts and oil to blend everything together. Once you know the method, you can make endless combinations: "Don't be afraid to play around," Michael Petres, of Porano Pasta in St. Louis, who's made pesto at home with everything from fennel tops to arugula, urges.
Think outside the pasta box.Pesto can be used to garnish meat, like in classic chicken Genovese. But it can also be used pre-cooking: For a recent Beetlebung Farm dinner, Quality Meats executive chef Antonio Mora used a parsley-tarragon-mint pesto to marinate "lambchetta" for 24 hours. We also suggest spreading it onto sandwiches or using it to dress salad, green goddess-style.
Keep it.Even James Beard Award-winning chefs make too much pesto sometimes. Madison, Wisconsin, chef Tory Miller keeps extra by freezing small amounts in individual Ziploc bags and ice cube trays. Small canning jars will do the trick as well.
Goreallygreen.Don't be afraid to throw in some stems from your herbs or use leafy greens that typically get thrown away. Think radish and beet greens, or carrot tops as Bruce Kalman does. Or just step away from the basil and try another herb.
Pesto is derived from the Italian wordpestare, meaning to pound, and it refers to the traditional method of preparation with a marble mortar and a wooden pestle. When we think of pesto, visions of the classic Italian sauce come to mind, but myriad versions of this “pounded sauce” exist. Some stay true to the original Genovese recipe of garlic, pine nuts, basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and olive oil, while others are inspired by those ingredients but have a character all their own. These days, pesto has become a generic term for any kind of sauce that’s been pounded (or processed) into a thick, green condiment.
You can make pesto with many other herbs besides basil, as well as other leafy greens. You can substitute crumbly Cotija for grated Parmesan or pumpkin seeds for pine nuts. You can omit the cheese entirely or add other spices to give it more heat. And you can make the pesto as thin or as thick as you like, to use as a sauce for pasta and pizzas or a spread for sandwiches and crostini. (Get the recipe for Linda's chunky Tomato leaf pesto here.)
I always keep a jar of pesto in the fridge for its versatility; it can elevate the blandest of dishes into the most flavorful of concoctions. To perk up a pot of minestrone, stir in a few spoonfuls of pesto. If you want to add a little special something to chicken, steak, potatoes, or carrots, pesto makes an easy and elegant sauce for drizzling.
Preparing your own pesto out of the odds and ends from your pantry and produce bin is simple once you know the formula. The proportion of greens can vary by up to a cup, give or take, as it depends on whether you use the tender leaves of vegetables or their denser stems and stalks. Stronger-flavoured herbs, like sage and tarragon, should be paired with milder tasting herbs like parsley and basil. Stems from a few different greens can be tossed in together, so save your stems throughout the week and turn them into an “anything goes” stem pesto. I often add a small handful of herbs or greens (like coriander or spinach) to my stem pesto for a smoother texture. (Get Linda's kale stem pesto recipe here - it's also great for cauliflower or broccoli stems).
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